Lôn Las Cymru follows the National Cycle Network routes 8 and 42 which cover the length of Wales, from Holyhead in the north to Cardiff and Chepstow in the south. Sustainable transport charity, Sustrans, grade the route “Challenge”, making it one of the hardest National Cycle Network routes in the UK.
- National Cycle Network route 8 sign
I discovered the reasoning behind the grade after a four day solo ride over 250 miles of terrain, including three mountain ranges, and a collective ascent of 5000m. If there is one thing a prospective challenger should know it is this: when the Sustrans guide reads “those on road bikes would find even some of the tarmac surfaces too rough,” take note. The book knows best!
Pre-trip preparation included kitting out my ROAD bike with a new tyre, luggage rack and small bag, as well as buying a pump, tyre levers, some inner tubes and a set of allen keys – all of which I had, embarrassingly, managed to survive without in six years of being a roadie. Perhaps more embarassingly, I knew zilch about bike maintenance and so called on Simon Cycle’s of Cowbridge to teach me the basics. (Thanks for your patience Si!)
- Bike (aka Ms Banana) all set to go!
Squeezing four-days-worth of kit into the world’s smallest makeshift pannier proved very difficult. So difficult, in fact, I forgot deodorant and pyjamas, and had to wear the same clothes for five days. Probably for the best I was cycling solo.
Maps and bike in hand, I caught the train from Cardiff Central to Holyhead which stopped at every town en route and even crossed into England before finally arriving at the destination.
On arriving in Holyhead, following the discovery of a leaking oil can in my bag and the realisation I had to spend a night in north Wales’s least attractive town, I began to wonder why I had decided to cycle the length of Wales in my week off. These thoughts were confirmed on arrival at The Anglesey Outdoor Centre – home for the night.
Day One: Holyhead to Porthmadog
Torrential rain and poor route markings made the morning leg a tricky affair. Poor sense of direction meant that I cycled a loop, not once – oh no, no – not twice, but three times. I was destined to remain on Anglesey forever.
- No sense of direction
Cycling past Penrhos Beach, the old Anglesey Aluminium works, Beddmanarch Bay, the RAF base, River Cefni and Bodowyr Neolithic Burial Chamber, the route offered a glimpse of the Snowdonia hills, shrouded in looming dark rain clouds. Never had a cyclist been so relieved to see Thomas Telford’s Menai Bridge, built in 1826.
Sodden and traumatised by Anglesey, I got briefly lost in Bangor, among the town’s bustling student population and comparatively busy traffic. Soon enough I was on the Lôn Las Menai, cycling through woods and then parallel to the idyllic Menai Strait.
- Menai Strait
Passing through Caernarfon, there was an opportunity to marvel at the castle and town walls, before joining the Lôn Eifion which intitially runs parallel to the Welsh Highland Railway.
- Caernarfon
- Start of Lon Eifion
Lôn Las soon flexed its muscles and threw in some steep climbs towards the end of day one.
Almost 68 miles later, I arrived at Cwm Pennant Hostel. After a shaky start, it is hard to imagine how I ever found the hostel which is at the end of a country track in Gardolbenmaen, about four miles from Porthmadog. The hostel had great facilities, including a secure bike shed, drying room, self-catering kitchen and cosy lounge area.
Day Two: Porthmadog to Machynlleth
Day two brought less rain, but much more in the way of gale force winds in the Snowdonia National Park. Missing the route markers between Porthmadog and Dolgellau meant I spent more time than I would have liked on the A475. After locating the elusive blue route signs, it became obvious that the gravelly surfaces were too extreme for a road bike and I resorted to alternative road routes for the rest of the trip.
Entering Snowdonia National Park
Rolling hills
- Remote track approaching Cadair Idris
In Machynlleth I stopped for an unholy trinity of coffee, cake and beer. A visit to the local bike shop revealed a worn bike chain which was in danger of snapping. Armed with spare chain links, I doubled-back in the direction of the hostel, keeping fingers and toes firmly crossed.
- River Dyfi, Machynlleth
Braich Goch Bunkhouse and Inn in Corris is mainly used by mountain bikers due to the high standard of nearby trails. The bearded dragon and snakes in the lounge were an interesting addition to the hostel’s ambience.
Day 3: Machynlleth to Builth Wells
This being my first multi-day cycling trip, day three was always going to be a bit of a killer. I had been warned about the mountain road from Machynlleth to Llanidloes, but had underestimated the lung-busting climbs in store.
Impressive scenery coupled with relentless dips and grades made the 20 miles to Llanidloes the most memorable of the trip. “What goes up must come down” took on a whole new level of meaning and the ecstasy of descending at over 40mph was soon overshadowed by slow, steep climbs.
View from the mountain road
Highs and lows of the mountain road
- Nearing the end of the torturous climbs is Llyn Clywedog Reservoir
From Llanidloes onwards I rode the A470 to Builth. I was covered in oil from a slipped chain, wearing filthy kit and in possession of two knackered knees.
Trericket Mill in Erwood, 10 miles beyond Builth could not have been a greater reward. Although more expensive than previous hostels, Trericket Mill was money well-spent. It has a bunkhouse, campsite and B ‘n’ B. The latter is housed in a red-bricked converted mill.
- Trericket Mill: if Carlsberg did veggie B ‘n’ B’s …
Owners, Nicky and Alistair, are passionate about environmental issues and vegetarian cuisine. They have a veg patch in the garden and cook everything from scratch. Delicious Glamorgan sausages, a selection of Welsh Ales and homemade limoncello were undoubtedly the culinary highlights of the trip.
Day four: Erwood to Cowbridge
Having taken an entirely unsuitable bike on the trip it was impossible to follow the Taff Trail back to Cardiff. The monotony of the busy A470 was not ideal, but did provide some good views of the Brecon Beacons before heading to Merthyr and then home via Pontypridd.
Lôn Las Cymru is no John O’Groats to Land’s End, but it is most definitely a challenge. As any road cyclist knows, those long, lonely miles in the wind and rain might not be the most enjoyable, but they are sometimes where you find out how far you can push it.
CRANK IT UP CYMRU!
crankitupcymru 